Drunken Goat Meat Curry

Indian food does not naturally lend itself to cooking in wine or beer. In our family, it all started by accident.

One fine day, our extended family, which included uncles, aunties and cousins, decided to go for a picnic at a picturesque spot on the shores of Lake Victoria in Entebbe. We had heard rumours of a Ugandan African who had a pet crocodile called Mugambo. The idea was to go and have a picnic and also see his pet. Lake Victoria is as large as England; it’s a vast sheet of water as far as the eye can see.  During the day, it takes on the colour of the sky and sunsets here are spectacular – the lake waters turn fiery red. Lake fish Tilapia and Nile perch are a delicacy.

We arrived at our chosen spot, away from crocodiles and hippos. It was a day off for all the ladies and the men were going to do the cooking.  The women broke into clusters according to the pecking order and began to gossip away. They were however in charge of the kids to ensure they did not stray too near the lake waters and become a crocodile’s lunch. Our dogs had the run of the shore and it was a mad scene with the barking of dogs and the wild screams of children having fun interspersed with the angry admonishments and chatter of mothers and aunties.

The fathers and uncles had loaded up vehicles with provisions including one slaughtered goat and plenty of cases of beer. Most of the men were partial to a triangular bottle of whisky called Dimple. Cooking commenced with gusto – chopping onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger. Talk became more and more animated as the whisky and beer bottles were emptied.  All of a sudden, one uncle, the chef designate, gave out an anguished cry. The men folk had forgotten two things at home – jerry cans of water and serving plates. Water from the lake could not be used because of the fear of a dreaded water-borne disease called Bilharziasis.

The problem of plates was soon solved – the hubcaps of car tyres from five vehicles were removed and washed to be used as plates. As regards water, one of the uncles suggested we use beer! Thus the tradition of drunken goat meat curry took root in our family. Our lakeside meal in car hubcaps was accompanied by rotis cooked on a wood fire that gave them a pleasant, woody, smoky flavour. The mutton was also the best that I have ever had though we never did get to see the African with his pet crocodile.

Years later, I met one Mr. Sahni in Nigeria a devout foodie. He informed me that the bitter taste of beer has to be counteracted with one glass of white wine. Two years ago I met a friend from Uganda and he actually had photographs of Mugambo with his master! So it was not a legend, after all!

Over the years this dish has evolved and the best formula appears to be to marinate goat meat in a paste of spices with a pint of beer and glass of white wine overnight.  You’ll find there’s no sign of the liquid the next day -  it is all absorbed by the meat. A truly drunken goat!

Here’s my recipe for Drunken Goat Meat Curry. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

Ingredients

• 2 kilos Goat meat
• 1 kilo Onions (preferably red onions)
• 1 can of Tomatoes
• 1 tsp Sun dried tomato puree
• 1 tbsp Garlic paste
• 2 tbsp Ginger paste
• 1 tbsp Jeera
• 1 tsp Coriander powder
• 1 tsp Cumin Powder
• 1 tbsp Haldi
• 1 tsp Red chillies
• 1 tbsp Dry methi
• 1 tsp Garam Masala
• 4 tbsp Olive oil.
• Coriander to garnish
• Juliennes of ginger to garnish

Method

1. First get the goat drunk! Prepare a marinade of one pint beer + 1 glass of wine + ginger and garlic paste, haldi, coriander and cumin powder.
2. Pour on goat meat and make sure it’s evenly covered. Leave it in fridge overnight. Next morning the goat meat has a reddish hue and is tender to the touch. Absolutely no sign of the liquid as it is now thoroughly inebriated. One may even hear hiccups!
3. Heat Olive oil in a pan – add jeera to season the oil.
4. Immediately, add chopped onions and fry.
5. Once the onions are brown, add tomatoes and tomato puree.
6. Fry until the oil separates – its sign that the masala is ready to cope with the drunken goat meat.
7. Let it cook in its own juices for about half an hour.
8. Add some water and simmer for another half an hour.
9. Stir in dry methi. In my opinion, Pakistani Kasoori methi is the best.
10. Sprinkle garam masala to add extra aromatic flavours and garnish with coriander and ginger.

This kind of dish is best eaten Punjabi style with fresh Rotis or Naans straight from the griddle. Also served with Kenyan “Kuchumbri” – a salad of finely diced onions, tomatoes, cucumber and green chillies. I usually have the left over with plain boiled rice.

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