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We started our meal with a shot glass of Aam Porar Sorbot (complimentary), which is a traditional drink made with roasted mangoes, chili, roasted cumin seeds, chili and rock salt. Tasted good, but too sweet for my palate unfortunately.

Our appetizers comprised Maacher Chop, Stuffed Crumbed Crabs, Deviled Eggs and Mochar Chop. The Maacher Chop (breaded croquette of fish and potatoes) was crisp, tasted good and disappeared quickly. The Mochar Chop (breaded croquette of banana flowers) was good too, though for the life of me I cannot figure out why some people (vegetarians) equate it to meat. The Deviled Eggs were a bit of a disappointment as I feel they should have been spiced up a wee bit more – which is why they’re called ‘Deviled’. The star of this course was without a doubt the Stuffed Crumbed Crabs. Crisp, crunchy, spicy, smooth and utterly delicious, Chipo polished off her portion in a jiffy and announced it to be the winner of the lot. The texture of the crumbs, combined with the succulence of the meat within isn’t something that’s experienced very often and I loved it.

Our main course was the Brown Sahib Bengali Platter, followed by a sampling of their Anglo-Indian wares, Duck Korma, Cheese Souffle, Ball Curry with Yellow Rice and Macchi ka Saas. The Bengali Platter at Brown Sahib is served in marble bowls, eaten on marble plates and accompanied by marble tumblers and bowls for the three different chutneys. A riot of colors, textures and flavors, the Bengali Platter at Brown Sahib is a delight to the senses. Shukto, the traditional starter in Bengali cuisine, is an acquired taste and you’ll be forgiven for not liking it much. The Shukto was followed by Doi Begun (aubergine in yogurt), Bhaja Moong Dal (lentil fritters), Betki Paturi (spicy, steamed fillets of fish), Galda Chingri Malai Curry (whole jumbo prawns in a thick, flavorful and rich gravy) and Khashir Rezala. Each dish had it’s own unique flavor and was substantial in a home-cooked sort of way. Of special mention is the Betki Paturi, which is a fillet of fish, liberally coated in a spicy paste of mustard, chilies and coconut, wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. Moist and tender on the inside, you must try it when you’re at Brown Sahib. I will mention however, the mustard wasn’t as sharp as usual, which is probably a concession to the jaded Delhi palate. The Khashir Rezala was to die for and I salute the goat who gave up his life for this noble cause – well padded mutton chops, simmered in a velvety and mildly spiced gravy, it went very well with a small serving of rice.

The Anglo-Indian fare were equally scrumptious. How wrong can you go with Duck Korma? A throwback to colonial times when local cooks, under Burra Sahib’s directions, bastardized the well known Korma into a dish with mildly spiced gravy quite unlike the Korma we’re used to. The Cheese Souffle had risen perfectly and was cheesy without going over the top. The Ball Curry with Yellow Rice was average in taste and the texture of the meat dumpling could have been a little softer. Interestingly, this dish was also called “Virgin’s Delight” in colonial times. That’s British humor for you I guess. I wasn’t too happy with the Macchi ka Saas, which is a Parsi dish – a trifle overcooked, the fish had dried out on the inside, which is no way to treat a fish.

Did you know I had to waddle to the washroom after *every* dish, so you could see the food? I didn’t have the heart to defile such excellent food with any metal implement and used my fingers instead.

We ended our repast with a collection of Bengali and Anglo-Indian desserts – Bhapa Doi (steamed, sweet yogurt), Patishapta (soft crepes stuffed with a sweet coconut mixture), Malpoa (little crisp pancakes soaked in flavored sugar syrup), Kamala Kheer (orange flavored thickened milk made with clementines or mandarins), Puli Pitha (stuffed flour dumplings in a sweet sauce) and Crepe Suzette. My favorite was the Patishapta. In fact, Chipo, who is lactose intolerant, even popped a pill, so she could partake of the desserts. How good is that?

I can only encourage you to visit… and take your friends with you. The food and service at Brown Sahib is worth experiencing and then re-visiting at least till you’ve tried every dish on the menu.

- Sid

Meal for Two: Rs 1000 – 1500| Credit Cards: MOST | Alcohol: NOT YET | Takeaway: YES | Home Delivery: NO |

Brown Sahib Menu: Click here (right click then ’save as’)

Location: 2nd Floor MGF Metropolitan Mall, Saket, New Delhi
Phone: 011-40820027-30 and 9958818862/9958818862
Timings: Mon – Sun, 12:30 pm – 3:30 pm, 7:30 pm – 11:30 pm

Brown Sahib, MGF Mall, Saket5.055

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