Diva, GK-II M Block Market, New Delhi

[Rating:3/5]
All foodies who love Italian food and enjoy great ambience while they dine must make a trip to Diva – Ritu Dalmia’s restaurant in M Block market GK II. I did, and found it every bit worth the experience!

On entering the restaurant you’ll find a dimly lit, slightly cramped dining area with about 25 covers and tables a bit cluttered with glass goblets, sea salt, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and cutlery. The décor is minimalist with woven leather chairs completing the scene. They have this huge fireplace at the end of the room, which was being used to roast bell peppers. I did like that – the fire was actually functional and not just an empty décor statement. It also suffused the dining room with a lovely amber glow.

The very extensive, well categorised and elaborate wine menu made a perfect companion to the food that was to follow. I’m not much of a wine person, but do like the Sauvignon Blanc, which was the grape for the evening.
The traditional bread basked came with three types of bread (focaccia, hard roll slices and a flat, toasted bread made of pizza dough) and was served with a mixing bowl of tomatoes, red chili peppers, capers, sea salt, olive oil and a touch of balsamic vinegar – interesting flavors and probably healthier than butter.

To begin with I ordered a Tris di pesce affumicato. This was a tasting platter of smoked fish – three wafer thin slices of Sword Fish, Cod and Tuna – citrus marinated, flavored with green peppercorns and served with a tomato basil sorbet. The slices gave new meaning to the term ‘wafer thin’ – Were Stuart Little skating across my plate, he would barely have felt the bump where the plate ended and the fish began. The fish by themselves tasted very good and were full of flavor. The tomato basil sorbet added a new dimension to the flavors on the plate. I’ll admit this was the first time I’ve eaten a cold, semi-frozen, savory sorbet. It exposed new facets of what was on the plate as well as a whole new range of sensations when you actually eat the fish and sorbet together – traces of the ocean, the sweet-savory chill of the sorbet, the smoky-citrus hint from the fish – overwhelming!

The second course was a Tagliata di controfiletto – balsamic glazed sliced tenderloin, grilled on a wood fire, sprinkled with lemon infused olive oil and finished with some mushroom and pecorino shavings. Pecorino is a hard cheese made from sheep’s milk. Made primarily for grating, it could be called a cousin to the Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) as both are most often used on pasta dishes. The steak was served with a portion of Arugula or Rocket leaves, which lent a lovely peppery flavor to the meat. I asked for a medium-rare steak and enjoyed every bite. The meat was tender and done just right with the flavors of the glaze, Pecorino and Rocket combining to deliver an exquisite crunchy yet meaty texture.

For the third course, the Orata in padella con carciofi romani e mostarda di frutta seemed perfect. I mean, how can anyone resist a dish that’s described as Icelandic Halibut, pan grilled, flavored with mustard fruit and served with grilled artichoke heart and a cherry tomato salad? Chef seems to like Rocket, as the cherry tomatoes were accompanied by a nice, green bunch of Rocket leaves. Suits me fine really! The halibut was tender and quite delicious! Having said that, a little more time spent in the marinade would have been nice.

Having eaten and drunk my way through very fine meal, it was time for dessert. Did I mention the place was nearly empty when I entered? I couldn’t help but wonder why the place was so sparsely populated on a weekend. I needn’t have bothered, as all the tables were rapidly occupied a few minutes after ordering. Interestingly, many diners found people they knew and the sounds of people chatting, hugging and otherwise interacting provided a nice touch to an already warm ambience. The waiter suggested a chocolate soufflé midway, informing us that it takes 20 minutes to prepare. Quite thoughtful of him, however, the Panna Cotta won in the end. It was the melt-in-the-mouth Italian classic, served with biscotti and flavored with burnt orange rind; a suitable end to a delightful meal.

The portions could have been just a wee bit larger though. Many of us will raid the fridge for an ‘after dinner snack’. I also found the service just a bit snooty, without the basis for it, if you know what I mean. Perhaps ‘pretentious’ could also be used here.

Most places try hard to strike a balance between good food, maintaining a suitable atmosphere and delivering high service standards… and fail. Not so here. Diva seems to have found the notch somewhere in between. It effortlessly delivers an enchanting experience on all fronts. If you like good food and appreciate great service, I’d recommend it any day!

Check out the menu here

- Sid

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    About Sid Khullar

    Sid is the primary contributor to and editor of Chef at Large. A self confessed food addict who likes cooking, writing and photography... and travel, if it gets him closer to a good book and interesting food. He's spent 17 years in varying functions of technology, leaving the field after a stint heading software research & development for electrophysiological medical diagnostics. He now applies himself to learning more about food and building food and beverage brands online for Brands at Large clients. Sid covers Delhi/NCR for Chef at Large and can be reached at editor@chefatlarge.in