What would I rather do on a foggy winter morning other than be well wrapped inside my quilt, sipping a cup of hot ginger chai? There are not many options that come to mind readily, but there’s one which would get me to take the Metro to Rajiv Chowk, and change over lines to reach Chawri Bazaar – a breakfast of Nihari and Paaya in bylanes of Jama Masjid, with some Daulat ki Chaat to finish things off.

While there are many popular Nihari shops, Kallu Nihari, Haji Noora and Shabbarati Nihari to name a few (the guys at http://eoid.org know a thing or two about Nihari), there are two eateries which serve goat Nihari (rather than buff Nihari) and have proper sit-down areas i.e. Karim’s and Al Jawahar (or make it three as there are two Al-Jawahar outlets on either side of Karim’s, as the family seems to have split).

To begin with, you have to be really early (before 0900 to be on the safe side), else both these places would have run out of the good stuff. At Karim’s, the service is so supercilious that you won’t even get an apology. While Nihari is available for breakfast the year round, a hearty meat dish with rotis is not everyone’s idea of breakfast, so think of it as your next Sunday brunch. Every city has its own version of Nihari – from Lucknow to Delhi to Karachi. Raavi Kebab in London and Sabri Nihari in Chicago have become legends in far off lands.  One thing that is common all over, is meat being cooked overnight, but Delhites point to the mandatory use of saunf (fennel seeds) and saunth (dry ginger) that makes their Nihari special. Whatever! While back home in Avadh, Nihari is eaten with Kulcha, in Delhi it goes with Khamiri roti (a rather soft version of Tandoori Roti due to the addition of yeast). I would take either of the two breads, as long as the Nihari is good.

If there are two of you or you are alone but have the appetite of two adults, as I do, order a plate of Nihari and a plate of Paaya. Do not feel guilty, just remind yourselves that Paaya has medicinal properties and is part of a hakimi nuskha.  Thankfully, both Jawahar and Karim’s do a good job of both the Nihari and the Paaya – the Nihari with very tender meat due to hours of cooking and Paaya a bit gelatinous due to the cuts of meat used, mainly trotters. Personally, I prefer Karim’s but that is probably because my chilli-hot tolerance ends at a low scoville count. Since Karim’s is milder as far as use of chilli-heat is concerned, it helps me appreciate the taste better. No, I am not a great admirer of Karim’s and, actually a critic of everything there other than their burra kebabs and the ishtoo. By the way, one plate of each would cost around Rs. 100 at both places.

Now that you are really full, drop the idea of taking a cycle-rickshaw back to the Chawri Bazaar station. Walk back, as the most amazing treat awaits you there. A khomchewala, or two stands on the Chawri Bazaar Rd. selling Daulat ki Chaat. Simply put, it is milk froth topped with bhura (coarse brown sugar) and khoa or khurchan, but then you can’t ‘simply put’ Daulat ki Chaat, a dessert like no other. Let me just quote Madhur jafferey from Climbing a Mango Tree, “…mutkainas, terra-cotta cups, filled with daulat ki chaat, which could be translated as ‘a snack of wealth’. Some cynic who assumed that all wealth was ephemeral must have named it. It was, indeed, the most ephemeral of fairy dishes, a frothy evanescence that disappeared as soon it touched the tongue, a winter specialty requiring dew as an ingredient.”

Those worried about hygiene and surroundings, shed your fears and take your family along. I have been there with my four year old, who having spent most of his life in Europe, ought to have been the most susceptible to Delhi belly. Although, I asked for bottled water for him, he loved his Halwa-Puri and also tried the Sheermal… and two helpings of Daulat ki Chaat. So in the coming month, welcome the Metro to NOIDA with a trip to Matia Mahal.

- Siddhartha

References for those interested in trying these dishes at home:

• Recipe of Lucknow nihari (uses mustard oil), Pushpesh Pant
• Daulat ki Chaat recipe in Penguin books -- The Essential Delhi Cookbook, by Priti Narain, which you can find on the web
• Chef Zakir’s preparing Nihari on a Pakistani TV show (complete video)