Sbarro Revisited, Great India Place, NOIDA

[Rating:2/5]
During our last visit to Sbarro, Great India Place, NOIDA, we had stated:

Sometime in the future, we may visit snake infested amazonian jungles when bored, jump off cliffs with bedsheets and attempt to fly…

As our second visit illustrates, our ‘bedsheet parachutes’ may have been a better idea. The Sbarro punchline, “Fresh Italian cooking… guaranteed!” wasn’t quite fulfilled, I think. We ordered slices of their ‘Sicilian’ Chicken and vegetable, Tandoori Chicken and Plain Cheese pizzas. We also asked for a serving of spaghetti with bolognaise sauce and a portion of roast potatoes.

While their model is to sell by display, and every pizza is pre-cooked by design, the final experience just doesn’t cut it. For example mozzarella is quite good when it is freshly cooked/baked. But when it is allowed to cool and is then improperly reheated, it gets this oily texture and flavor that is quite repulsive, just like when you microwave leftover pizzas at home. The Sicilian was served on a flimsy paper holder, even though we were clearly dining in, while the rest were served in ceramic plates, one of which was badly chipped I must add. All the pizzas were floury, thick, without flavor of any sort, had congealed cheese and were served cold. The plates were quite hot, but the food itself was cold. The spaghetti, while cooked well, was sloppily served with water flooding the base of the platter. The bolognaise smelled and tasted repulsive. The roast potatoes were coated with a burnt powdery sludge and smelled/tasted burnt too. The flavor wasn’t balanced and far from the crisp outer shell and soft inners that one would expect, the outside was chewy and the inners were starchy. All of these too were cold.

My Take
I’ve noticed this about India. Foreign brands which are trusted elsewhere, come to India only to have their quality perception drop drastically. The reason I think is our very popular phrase and underlying attitude “Chalta Hai”. For my non-Indian readers, this phrase would literally translate into a context specific “It’ll work this way too, why bother” with a specific disregard by the speaker towards any or all of – rules, policy, safety, responsibility or accountability. Specifically, in this context, I’m referring to not following training and standard operating procedures.

I believe it may be the same with Sbarro. I have friends who have experienced the brand abroad and rate it as one of their favorite pizza places. Why doesn’t it seem to have the same popularity in India?

As per a company source:
All our products are on display for a maximum period of 60 minutes and discarded after that time. This is a global practice.  We use a special higher quality mozzarella cheese with a much higher butter fat content so as to make our product compatible to reheat. This cheese is custom made to our international specs and costs 50% more than the standard mozzarella used by other players. Our SOP calls for all products to be on display (since we sell by display) and for these selected products (guest order) to be reheated until the cheese bubbles again and then given to the guest.

The product I received was clearly not heated well, since far from bubbling, the cheese and the pizza were cold. As per the company, the pizza is meant to have a thick crust and is served in a paper plate as most customers would like to take it away. Clearly, the serving staff do not have the instructions or the training to mould the customer experience. Or perhaps it’s the “Chalta Hai’ effect in all it’s brilliant splendour. I’m referring to the execution team here. Standard Operating Procedures were written for a specific purpose and failure to adhere to them can only damage the company’s product and consequently it’s standing in the market. For example, had the staff followed SOP, they would have ensured the product was heated and served as envisioned by the product designers. If they would have applied a little thought, the Sicilian would have been served on plates rather than paper. We as a people need a drastic adjustment in our quality focus. There will be exceptions of course, but personally, I find this to be the rule.

The drinks were priced at about double the MRP. Now, there’s a fine point to be made here. Legally, they’re in the right, because a court ruling allows restaurants to serve soft drinks (among other consumables) at higher than MRP, because, as per the ruling:

The customer does not enter a hotel or a restaurant to make a simple purchase of the bottled water. It may well be that a client will order nothing beyond a bottle of water or a beverage, but his direct purpose in doing so would clearly be to enjoy the ambience available therein and to ordering of any article for consumption

The spirit of the ruling is therefore, if you’re adding sufficient value, then you may go ahead and charge higher than MRP prices. Fair enough. Sbarro however, doesn’t seem to add value to a consumer’s experience. There’s no table service, the seating enclosure is open, the tables have no condiments, plates are chipped, cutlery is plastic and so on. There are many others in the market who provide the same level of ambience and may even charge more for their beverages. Unfortunately, the ambience combined with the quality of the food makes for a very low value proposition. This in turn generates the opinion that Sbarro may be not be adhering to the spirit of the court ruling.

We visited again due the to blitz of advertisements that indicated some thought had gone into their offerings. Not so. Apart from some fairly standard gimmicks, no additional thought seems to have been put into the issue of providing value to the consumer or at the very least, providing food that tastes good. One simple example is the sauce used. Most people relate to tomato ketchup that’s red in color. Fact. The stuff in the sachets is brown. Fini. Also, I’d rather not consume stuff that’s in the eleventh month of its life.

The surprising thing is that Sbarro is run by the same company that operates places like Mandarin Trail, which has excellent service and good food. Quite to the contrary, at Sbarro the staff is indifferent, food without appeal, tables left uncleaned and a promise of quality that remains unfulfilled.

Should you visit? No! Unless of course you’re a glutton for punishment… with extra cheese.

Check out the menu here | Check out all restaurant locations for this brand here

- Sid
PS: The photograph below of Spaghetti with Tuna Garlic sauce is my recipe, and is displayed automatically due to the context of this post.

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    About Sid Khullar

    Sid is the primary contributor to and editor of Chef at Large. A self confessed food addict who likes cooking, writing and photography... and travel, if it gets him closer to a good book and interesting food. He's spent 17 years in varying functions of technology, leaving the field after a stint heading software research & development for electrophysiological medical diagnostics. He now applies himself to learning more about food and building food and beverage brands online for Brands at Large clients. Sid covers Delhi/NCR for Chef at Large and can be reached at editor@chefatlarge.in